Fresh Face, Old Tradition

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Abraham Partamian Bakery has been one of Los Angeles' most popular bakeries since the end of World War II, providing Armenian cuisine for the local West Adams community. But if you were to walk into the 64-year-old bakery today, you may just find yourself surprised at what you see. Or rather, who you see.

Leon Partamian was the owner of Partamian Bakery for nearly 60 years. But just before he passed away in 2006, he had a decision to make: Who would take over his beloved bakery?

With no family to pass down his legacy, Partamian chose the next closest thing: his two longtime assistants, Jose Gonzales and Francisco Rosales, who had been working for Partamian since 1975.

“I learned from him to make all the stuff, the Armenian stuff," Rosales said. "They gave me all the secrets for the bread and everything.”

Rosales and Gonzales took over the bakery in 2006 and have been carrying Partamian's legacy of great Armenian food including pita breads, baklava, and a favorite Armenian treat called Lahmajune. Often called "Armenian Pizza," Lahmajune is made with lamb meat, tomato, peppers, herbs, and spices.

The bakery's Lahmajunes are so popular, Rosales and company are constantly making new batches throughout the day, and often sell them by the dozens.

“I live in the Marina now," said Barbara Kalegian, a regular at Partamian bakery, "but I still come here to get my Lahmajunes.”

Rosales and Gonzales grew up together in Zacatecas, Mexico, and have stuck together for over 40 years.

“I know him because we come from the same place in Mexico," Rosales said. "We went to school together, and he got married with my cousin; it's a family. I’ve known him forever.”

Rosales is grateful for Partamian passing down his shop, but says his former boss and mentor has done much more for him.

“He helped me a lot and Jose and everybody. He's very good person, He helped me fix my green card, and my family’s. He was very nice.”

With new owners, came a new name: F&J Partamian Bakery (F and J for Francisco and Jose). But new name or not, business is as good as ever, thanks to the duo's ability to replicate the famous recipes Partamian taught them all those years ago.

“When he passed away, all the customers knew me," Rosales said, "and everyone wants me to keep making the Lahmajunes because they say they don’t find them anywhere like these ones here. And I feel good when they say that."

Francisco's name is already becoming synonymous with the popular bakery.

But he isn't getting any younger. Like Partamian did for him, Rosales too will soon have to find someone new to take over the shop.

“I don’t know. I’m getting old and tired," said Rosales. "So I hope someone in the family takes over when I leave the store. Maybe my sons or maybe Jose’s sons take it over."

Leon Partamian was a father-figure for Rosales, who hopes to keep the shop alive as long as he can, passing it down, generation to generation.

“Like family, yeah. That's what it is.”